So, it's been a While....

I think we became so accustomed to our guests writing blog entries that when they stopped coming, we forgot about the blog altogether. That doesn't mean that there hasn't been a lot going on in our lives. We were lucky enough during the long, hot summer months of June and July to have our friends Julie and Stephen visit for a week from New York. Julie and Stephen introduced us to Rose and that, lots of it, got us through the long, hot evenings. Then we had a nice family trip to the nature isle of Dominica in conjunction with one of Preston's work trips. Dominica is beautiful but not what you would expect from a Caribbean island...there are really no beaches to speak of but jagged mountain sides that dive into the water, lots of rainforest and waterfalls and natural hot spring pools in the middle of it all. Of course, when Amanda gets to escape Antigua, she's mostly excited about air conditioned hotel rooms and TV!!!

Just as rainy season, hurricane season, and bug season was starting, we escaped to the states for two months. Amanda knew it was time to get out of Dodge when at her last playgroup before leaving for home, the talk was focused on "how many tarantulas have you seen at your house yet?" Apparently, when their holes fill with water, they seek shelter inside.

We celebrated Madeline's second birthday in Maine and she was happy to have lots of playtime with her cousins. It's amazing to us the explosion of language and playskills and emotions that come at this age. She's turned into a little person rather than a toddler, able to have conversations with us, and express her interests and desires (No!) and she's getting more and more fun each day. Some of our favorite milestones and Madeline-isms at 2:

• She knows all her colors, and really has since 18 months, which at the time, made the doctor's jaw drop.
• She can count up to 30, inconsistently, but always at least up to 15 without missing one.
• She knows her ABCs.
• She can now sing along to some of her favorite songs including, "Daisy" and "Rock a Bye Baby"
• She is towering over the other two year olds at a whopping 36 inches and 31 pounds (90%). In fact, she's frequently mistaken for a 3 year old.
• Favorite activities include throwing rocks and sand into the ocean ("one, two, three, plop"); flying on the airplane; looking for the moon at night; singing and dancing; swimming in the pool and ocean; drawing (on everything) and searching for stop signs.
• She's finally ventured in the land of vegetables after a good six month break when she tried her best to subsist on watermelon, honeydew and cataloupe.

Most importantly, just after her second birthday, Madeline found out that she's going to be a big sister next year and is already telling people that there's a baby in Mommy's tummy. We're hoping to live it up here in the next couple months while we can before the storm of two children hits! Enjoy the attached photos from Maine and Dominica.

A Visit from Grandma and Grandpa Motes

Thursday – We arrived on this beautiful paradise island with its contrasts of luxury and poverty. Although we had seen pictures of the house, it is still amazing to see. It is perched upon the side of a hill with sweeping views of the ocean. The deck surrounds half of the house and the infinity pool is just a couple of feet off the guest bedroom. The best, however, is the little charmer with the golden curls who talks a storm and wraps her self around your heart!

Friday – We slept to the sound of the pounding surf and croaking frogs. When we woke up in the beautiful guest bedroom and looked through the glass walls to the pool, the lush foliage and the ocean beyond, we realized that we are in paradise. We lounged on the beach for a time. Then Amanda took us on a drive to OJ's where we had lunch on the restaurant beach. Madeline busied herself by putting sand on the unoccupied chairs.

Saturday - It was Sail Week, which meant that over 200 sailing yachts from around the world were moored at English Harbor for the week long race. Amanda and Preston had signed up to help crew one of the yachts. We all went down to the harbor to meet Captain Ron and his bevy of girls, who would also be helping to crew the Iroko. While Preston, Madeline and Grandpa waited on shore, Amanda and Grandma got to go on a practice run with Captain Ron giving lessons.

Sunday – Amanda had to fly off to Mustique to chase Prince William for People magazine so Preston sailed on the first day of the races. (We could see all of the yachts from the deck of the house as they rounded the island.) That meant Grandma and Grandpa got little Miss Madeline all to themselves. She is a delight! So charming and sweet! We read lots of books and played music and danced. She is smart too! We were amazed at the letters and numbers she recognizes and proudly proclaims.

Monday – Amanda was still on Mustique rubbing elbows with royalty while Preston crewed for the second day. Again, Grandma and Grandpa got to spend another special, magical day with Madeline. Amanda made it home that night with wonderful stories of the Prince and his entourage.

Tuesday - Grandma and Grandpa were relieved from their child watching duties and allowed to play on the beach. Later Amanda took us to Georges in St. Johns for lunch, followed by shopping on the cruise ship docks.

Wednesday – It was “Lay Day”, a rest day for Sail Week. Grandma and Grandpa spent the morning snorkeling the reef off of "Armani" beach. In the afternoon Amanda took us to Half Moon Bay (or as Madeline calls it – Moon Beach) where we did some more snorkeling. The beach and water was amazing.

Thursday – Amanda had a chance to get her sea legs back and took her turn crewing with Captain Ron. Preston had to go to work so Grandma and Grandpa again got our darling "Moon Child" for the day. Madeline has a fascination for the moon and points it out when pictured in a book, and she scans the sky looking for the moon as it gets dark. Needless to say, she is very disappointed when the moon is not where it should be! We met up with Amanda following the race and had a barbeque dinner at Shirley Heights with a gorgeous view of English Harbor.

Friday – The final day of Sail Week. Amanda didn't feel that she should sail, and Preston had to work. Captain Ron was short one person to make his minimum crew. Grandpa volunteered to go and Grandma was salivating at another chance to sail, so Ron was gracious enough to take both. Aside from Madeline, it was the highlight of the trip! Grandma would live on a boat if Grandpa would let her!

Saturday – Time to leave the perfect island with the perfect hosts and the perfect grandchild. Thank you so much.

The Heat is On

The lizards crawl under their rocks, the hermit crabs shimmy across the beach in search of a trickle of water, the goats bound up the cliffs to find an overhanging ledge to duck under and Madeline and I sit in our house and wonder, "is it too soon to get back into the air conditioned car to drive around the island?" It's a cruel geo-meteorological trick to be surrounded by beaches and still oceans, and yet, be unable to go into them. For the warm blooded Motes girls, the short walk to the beach this week was like walking through the rain forest, only no forest, just intense sun beating down on you through the thick humid air.

In the morning you wake up and you think, ahhh, this is pleasant. A cool breeze is blowing through the window, the fan above you wafts away any burgeoning stickiness trying to break through, and you think, today will be nice. Of course, it's only 6:30, so you go and make your coffee, you sit on the porch sipping, thinking, still hoping, that perhaps this will be a nice day. And then suddenly it seizes you, like an all encompassing body vice that humidity coats you like a scuba suit and you skin screams, no, no, no not again….

Have no fear… May is apparently the worst month on island –the high season of cooler (still warm) temps and breezes is over and yet the summer trade winds have not yet arrived to blow all that humidity back up to DC. But you already knew that, right? It's no coincidence that suddenly our guest rooms are empty.

The retirees we met here from DC, Harry and Louise (Not of HIAA fame), swear that they'd pick a Caribbean summer over a DC summer in a heartbeat. But I just remembered, I forgot to ask them if they have air conditioning. Of course they do. What fool would move to the Caribbean without air conditioning.

Anyway, what was I talking about? It's hard to remember because the heat saps all your energy and concentration. So we've learned to adapt. You think siesta is a Spanish word? Well, who named Antigua? Columbus, that's right. And as he sailed by in the Nina, he instilled in the island a carefree sense of sleep anywhere, anyhow you can in the midday to escape the heat. So a daily toddler nap for Madeline is now matched by an afternoon siesta for Amanda, and Amanda and Preston on weekends. Yesterday we napped till three in the afternoon.

We've also learned to cram lots of outdoor activity into the bearable hours of the day – before 8 a.m. and after 5 p.m. At those times we walk from our house, down into the village and around a little peninsula for a 5 mile walk. It's a tradition we started when Armani arrived on the island – he walks the same path and so we woke up early trying to catch him. We never caught him but learned to love the walk.

The long walk through the Caribbean summer has begun. We can handle it, we're sure. Just don't call to wake up during our naps…

Guest Blog: Katie and Margeaux Drucker

A Tale of Two Vacations

It was the earliest of bedtimes
It was the latest of bedtimes

It’s Margeaux here. Giving a shout out to all of you “tinkin about cyomin down to de island.” I can’t recommend it enough – with every fiber of my being. Some of you might ask “is it the 365 beaches, one for every day of the year that you love?” Others may ask “Is it the Wadadli beer so fresh and so crisp?” And others yet will insist “Oh it must be the crystal blue waters.” To all of you I say “No Way!” you are overlooking the coolest thing about the island – MA-DE-LINE!!!!!!!! She is the reason to get up (from naps or nights sleep). She brings meaning to my day. She has the coolest toys, she knows how to walk, and perhaps the most enticing reason – she barely acknowledges me which makes me want to be with her even more! For these reasons and many more, I squeal with delight if she is even within 3 yards of me.

We’ve done a lot together down here. We went disco dancing with our friend, Elmo (see picture), we dined on fancy French food, we ate sand, and we hung out by the pools and by the beach (see picture) and we tolerated our boring parents while they tried desperately to catch a view of Georgio Armani – whoever that is. Next year, Madeline and I will have to go out without them.

It’s Katie here. We’ve just returned home from a most fantastic vacation at Casa Motes – a Lifestyles-of-the-Rich-and-Famous experience. I would recommend it for all. Margeaux and I had a great visit and Amanda, Preston, and Madeline were the very best hosts anyone could ask for. It is true – Preston cooked these fantastic meals each night, while Amanda and I were left to figure out the big issues of the day like “was Armani on island or not?” “Who exactly has rented Jumby bay for the week?” and most importantly “do you want a lime in your cocktail or not?” Other less debated questions were “Should we go down to the beach in bathing suits next to the Swedish models or not?” and “Should we take turns riding Annie’s moped?”

The days were filled with all sorts of fun outings but some of the week’s highlights that come to mind are:

Having quality time with Amanda, Preston and Madeline and seeing how great their life is right now - evening family swims in the pool are just the beginning.
Dancing at the top of Shirley Heights to the reggae band. Wish Grandma had been there!
Swimming every day in the private pool two yards outside the door or the secluded beach 200 yards at the base of the hill.
Lunch at Carlisle Bay with a huge tolerance for messy kids and a gorgeous beach to boot.
And last, but certainly not least, dinner at the retirement home, I mean Curtain Bluff, where the men play golf, the women wear Lilly, and the staff giggle all the way home.

Thank you for a great week! We miss you and the island.

Guest Blogger: Erin the Stalkerazzi

'Celebrity stalking' gets such a bad rap. I prefer to think of it as 'pretending you know someone famous and then following them around'. Walking out of the airport in Antigua, I smiled at two men, and quickly realized that I had just passed Eric Clapton dressed in shorts and flip-flops. Arriving at the Motes-Orr Resort, I'm struck by the amazing views and beachfront property. (I lost track of how many times I stated "I can't believe you live here.") Madeline is an absolute joy, walking, talking and repeating everything she hears. Most days started with a morning swim at the secluded beach and most evenings ended with cocktails and cards on the deck following a fabulous Preston-prepared dinner.

On Sunday, Amanda, People magazine's Caribbean Correspondent, received a call that Uma Thurman was spotted in St. Bart's kissing her former boyfriend, Andre Balazs. By Monday afternoon, Amanda, Madeline and I were on a plane to St. Bart's. To say landing in St. Bart's is treacherous is an understatement, as we were told to "close your eyes and don't look during the descent." Comforted by these words, we held on tight to the fold down seats in the WWII sea plane and landed safely.

At the St. Bart's airport, we bumped into David Letterman (and by airport I mean no security, simply walk onto the plane with or without a ticket). Dave was very friendly and he and his son, Harry, graciously posed for photos. Amanda commented that I seemed to be 'canoodling' with Dave. I explained that celebrities like it when strangers walk up to them and their children and stand very close. It makes them feel appreciated.

After checking into the only affordable hotel on the island, we stopped by the Nikki Beach Club in St. Jean. We noticed a group of tan, slightly drunk Australians drinking large amounts of rose wine (more on them later). We met a couple from Boston who told us they had spotted both Uma and Dave over the weekend checking out the yachts in the St. Bart's Bucket Regatta. Apparently, Jeff Bridges was wandering around as well, but pretending to be French whenever he was recognized. Leaving Madeline in the care of Sandra, the very sweet Colombian babysitter, we headed to Gustavia, the main harbor, to continue investigating. We had dinner at The Strand, where Uma was spotted on Thursday, but the staff were coy about her visit.

After dinner we followed the loud music to a waterfront bar where we stumbled onto the Australians, six hours drunker than when we saw them last them last. The group crews a yacht for a wealthy Australian businessman and spent the previous two weeks bringing the boat over from Spain. The crew's cook, Emily, was very affectionate with Amanda, perhaps because she was traveling with a flask of "secret sauce" in her bag. After some dancing, we headed back to The Strand night club where the bouncer, Jean-Luc (or Luc-Jean or Paul-Jean), blabbed about Uma (left the club alone), Mariah (was over-served at her birthday celebration) and Queen Latifah (burped in his ear when he hugged her goodbye). He's clearly Amanda's new St. Bart's contact.

The next day we headed to the all-white furnished Le Sereno hotel where Uma had lunch the previous week. Laying out our bright orange hotel towels, we hoped to avoid being noticed by Nico, the waiter/towel boy. Rather, he offered to "make up a bed" for us on the beach. We declined and instead, watched naked Madeline jump up and down on the beach bed to her true delight.

Back in Antigua, we bombarded Preston with our stories and celebrity sightings. Over the next several days, we snorkeled at the beach, walked around St John's, had lunch at Carlisle Bay and checked out the ships in English Harbour. The weather was fantastic and it was hard to pack up and leave. On the last day there, the construction crew let us sneak onto Giorgio Armani's deck to check out the view and fabulous pool. Only right that the week started and ended with a celebrity stalking.

Guest Blogger, Da (Andrea) Orr: EVERYTHING BUT THE HOT STONE MASSAGE

Lazy mornings by the infinity pool, afternoons riding the waves at one of Antigua's 365 magnificent beaches (one for every day of the year), then a couple more hours logged at the pool and at the private beach of a famous fashion designer neighbor, before finishing the evening off with a five star meal, prepared in turns by Chef Preston and Chez Pascal, and retiring to a mountaintop cottage underneath the stars, where the surf crashed below me and exotic Caribbean wildlife hummed all around. That pretty much sums up my five glorious days in the seaside village of Galley Bay. Sort of like a spa, minus the spa treatments. Who knew this sleepy little getaway was home to one of the top ten eateries in the world (as ranked by Fodor's)! It's a well kept secret, but fine French food and a gregarious chef await anyone who can navigate their way to the top of the steep gravely road that leads to Chez Pascal, a path that's treacherous by car and murder by foot, especially in the middle of the hot Antigua day. I was lucky (?) enough to make the trek both ways, the second time in the company of a young chef and a sweaty young reporter in training (AKA Olivia and Noah) who successfully scooped The Antigua Daily Observer when they scored an interview with Pascal and pumped him relentlessly until he revealed his secret recipe for mayonnaise. Other entertainment came by way Karaoke Queen Caroline and daily excursions with Amanda and the ever-social Madeline into town. Here on Antigua, grocery shopping counts as an outing. Yes, life on the island can be a bit slow, but delightfully so.

Guest Blogger, Laurie Meehan: Paradise Found

The first annual Meehan-Burich mother-daughter trip toAntigua to visit Chez Motes began a bit shakily. Megan christened the lovely deck and infinity pool by pooping in it/on it. My lovely daughter further endeared us to our hosts by puking up curdled milk and a Puerto Rican hot dog all over the guest bed linens. But Amanda, Preston and especially Madeline were forgiving towards the travel weary toddler and her even wearier mom. They treated us to fruit suprises, Wadadlis (local beer), and other libations, and a relaxing and peaceful daily schedule of beach, pool, crash a fancy resort to go to their bar/beach/pool. Rinse. Repeat. For four glorious days.

One caution to fellow hangers-on, oops, I mean, guests, leave the valuable jewelry at home. Evenings with Preston, Amanda and a deck of cards or a boggle board may seem like an innocent way to pass time, but I now have to turn over my first born (sorry, Christopher) to the Motes family as an indentured servant. . . Perhaps we'll get to keep Christopher if I drop the restraining order against the Mayor of Antigua (Madeline) for stalking Megan's every move . . . We can't wait to come back. Oooohkay. . .